FIRST WEEK IN MACEDONIA

I have been traveling for two weeks and arrived in Macedonia just a week ago. Have some observations to make, based on travels in this part of the world for more than 30 years now.

1. Macedonians are watching the US elections very carefully – especially to see who may be their friend and who may not. The friendship test is all about who will be most likely to support them in their dispute with Greece over their country’s name. I share this observation so I can tell you the following stories.

I had a one of those really great chance meetings that happens when traveling. It was my conversation with him - his name is Vlado - that gave rise to the above observation. On to the story.

When I arrived at the Greek-Macedonia border, I learned that the Greek border guards were on strike and there was no transport from the Greek border checkpoint to the Macedonian checkpoint – a distance of about 1000 meters. I started to cross on foot and to my delight my Greek cab driver ran about 100 meters in front of me into the zone between the two border checkpoints and flagged down another cab being manned by an enterprising Macedonian who obviously saw the strike as an business opportunity and located his cab in a place where travelers such as I would need help in moving body and luggage 1000 uphill meters. Cost me 5 Euros for the help and worth every cent!

Back to the meeting. I needed to make a phone call to my colleagues from the University who were to pick me up at the border – but could find no public phone. I found this gentleman about to enter his business office (in Macedonia at the border) and asked his help in placing the phone call. He said yes, cheerfully. Phone call was successful.

Using the universal technique of saying thanks, I offered buy him a beer at the bar next door to his office. Before the offer had spun off my lips he was shutting down his office and walking with me, side by side, to the bar.

We chose a table outdoors. I bought a few bottles of Skopsko (the home brew), fired up fine Cuban cigar I bought in Istanbul and the conversation begun.

The conversation was a marvelous thing. We drew upon four different languages (English, Macedonian, Slovak and Serbian) and proceeded to have a rather interesting conversation about candidates Obama and McCain. Bottom line is that according to Vlado, whoever was elected he hoped they would be sympathetic to Macedonia’ s desire to use the name Macedonia. This name issue should be taken seriously by the rest of the world and hopefully Pres Bush’s special advisor on the matter, Mr. Nimetz (sic), can help bring the problem to a close to the satisfaction of both parties. National pride is the issue which makes the name more than symbolic.

2. My apartment is in the middle of Tetovo’s daily farmer’s market. Marvelous to see the examples of small business people trying to sell their farm products, handicrafts like wisk brooms and tons of cheap consumer goods imported from China. They offer essentially the same farm products – huge bags of red peppers, potatoes and eggs. No real attempts to differentiate and no idea how the local folk decide from whom to buy. It would be fun to research the decision making paradigms locals use to decide on their vendor.

3. I started traveling in Eastern Europe in the mid 70’s with my father. Back in those days when visiting a new town the first thing we had to do was visit the local police station and register our presence. That practice ended in Slovakia in the 80’s; it persists here. For example, I had to travel to Thessaloniki, Greece to pick up my daughter at the airport. Because I was leaving the country – even if only for a few hours – I had to go to the police station and let them know. Today, this afternoon, I will return to the police station and register my return. I get the impression from some Macedonian citizens with whom I have spoken, that such regulations are withering and will likely be forgotten altogether, soon.

My Misericordia University students arrive in a few days and with the great help by everyone here, we are about to have a great learning experience with conversations with Macedonian officials, local business people and US Embassy staff about growing jobs, income and Macedonian prosperity through the promotion of entrepreneurship. Can’t wait!